You definitely want to drop your z offset a little bit lower than you would with a smooth plate. The goal is to squish some of that plastic down into the texture of the bed for some extra grip. I always take mine about -0.07 from the auto z offset.

Also, after checking with isopropyl, I recommend hearing up the bed and giving it about 10-15 min

I’ve been out of the game for a while, but I would assume a much better starting point would be buying her a drink. Ask the bartender what she’s having, then offer to buy one for her. “Here’s another drink ma’am, courtesy of that guy over there.”

I’m going to go against the grain here and say I primarily buy from Steam. A lot of indie games don’t require Steam to run to play them and for the games that do, it’s not hard to bypass. I just like having everything in one spot where I can redownload to other devices when needed, and I can have cloud saves for bouncing between my PC and Steam Deck. Also, if I nuke my OS for a 3rd time this month (changing distros), I won’t have to start over on the games I’m playing.

They started offering Ubuntu on their laptops. My company made W11 a requirement, unfortunately.

Yad is a dependency for Steam Tinker Tools.

STT is a plugin that allows a bunch of tweaks for games, including Mod Organizer support.

What version of Yad does Zorin come with? SteamTinkerTools was the whole reason I swapped from Mint to SteamOS/Arch

IT’S TIME TO SPLIT!

I definitely forgot the moleskin in mine. I’ll have to add that in next time I’m home.

Decide what your end goal is. Trauma kit, or just an ouch pouch? For basic injuries I pack adhesive bandages of various sizes, a little bit of gauze to help slow down a decent cut before bandaging, some ibuprofen, gloves, burn ointment, and maybe some antiseptic towelettes. In my camping ouch pouch I add in Neosporin for bug bites, tick tweezers, instant cold packs, and some nausea medicine.

In my portable trauma kit (it’s actually a small pack with both ouch and emergency compartments), I have more gloves, a fair bit of different sized packing gauze (quick clot), a compression bandage, emergency foil blanket, chest seals, a sharpie, and mounted on the outside are trauma shears and a CAT Gen 5 tourniquet in a dedicated holster. As a bonus, I have a moldable splint in an emergency survival bag with the rest of my kit.

If I remember, I can share some pics in a few days.

It was extremely easy when I did it. Had everything running in 20 min. The real drag was me wanting to use a more efficient file system, so I spent a day converting my drives to ext4.

I still love my Index, but I’m 100% buying the Frame when it comes out. I haven’t tried the Index on Desktop SteamOS yet. I should do that. The groundwork for Linux and VR has likely already been laid out.

I got that once. Called tech support and they recommended putting a vacuum hose against the cooling fan for about a minute. Did that, and everything started working again!

Although it’s not considered officially supported, you can absolutely install it on your PC. It’s been working great for me. The only hangup was disabling read-only mode for editing the OS and changing the default boot up behavior (start in desktop, not big screen mode). Other than those two things, it’s pretty much been plug and play.

It’s very easy to jump into (coming from Windows), and it comes with a lot of game compatibility.

The only reason I switched to SteamOS was because Yad was very outdated on Mint and every attempt I made failed. The dependency list to attempt to upgrade it was also pretty substantial.

I want to say late 2000’s to early 2010’s was when my friends and I all built our own PCs for about $500.

I recall it being a period of at least 10 years. A prior generation GPU would run about $150-200. The CPU/Mobo was the most expensive part

Mint is pretty… Uhh… Mint.

I miss the days when $500 could build a “console killer”

The enclosure just protects the prints from drafts, which can cause sharp corners to curl. The most common instance of curling I had was printing square shaped PETG parts that needed to be flat on the bottom. I got away with no enclosure for years by setting up my prints with tall, thick skirts close to the part (draft shield), and a thicker brim. I was basically tacking down the corners with extra plastic to keep them from curling up. However, PETG was just a bit too curly for this print.

The few times I absolutely needed draft protection, I used a trash bag. After I needed to do several batch prints for a cash job, I decided a $30 enclosure would be much more practical.

So far, my Ender 3 has met my needs very well. Any upgrade would be a “want” at this point.

For starters, you’re going to want an FDM printer. Resin printers can be nice, but there’s a lot more complexity to handle when you’re just figuring out how to print stuff.

I’ve been using an Ender 3 V3 KE for a few years. It’s been pretty solid. I can use any slicer I want, but the one from the manufacturer, Creality Print, has been pretty good for me. Most printers can use any slicer you choose, though the slicer designed for that printed will often give better results (until you figure out what specific settings you need).

Choose a budget, and then look for a printer with a direct drive extruder, auto leveling bed, and a heated plate. An enclosure is very nice, but I did fine for years without one. I recently bought an aftermarket enclosure after I started doing more PETG prints.

Multi filament is a cool feature, but that’s up to you if you want to pay for that. It does create a lot of waste, and you can always tell the printer to pause at certain points for you to change filaments for those times you want to do different colors.

Overall, I always recommend a simple-but-good printer at a reasonable price when getting started. Having convenience features will make the whole process easier, which I find makes it easier to learn.