• I’m a big fan of noodles, but one kind in particular is a “can’t walk away from” variety: 刀削面 (dāo xiāo miàn or “knife shaved noodles”). Where most noodle types around the world (including China) are pulled, cut, or extruded, 刀削面 are shaved from a noodle mass in strips. (This takes a significant amount of skill to do well; 刀削面 made by someone good at it can be pricey.)

    So what makes them special?

    The way they’re shaved makes them of uneven thickness, usually a bit thick (like, say, lasagna thick) on one side but shaved down to a knife’s-edge thickness on the other. This gives them a unique texture and mouthfeel. Further, the thin edge, when cooked, tends to “ruffle”, making it hold onto spices and sauces better.

    Traditionally these are shaved straight into a broth, cooked in seconds, and served as a soup. However they can also be served as “dry noodles” (noodles in sauce instead of a soup broth: Ragù alla Bolognese/spaghetti Bolognese would be classified as “dry noodles” in Chinese nomenclature), stir-fried, or used in any number of other creative noodle dishes.

    I can’t resist them. If they’re an option in a restaurant, they are not optional.